Oneonta Newspaper
Sweet Sorrow
12/18/09
SAM GOODYEAR
ART BEAT

During the two and a half years that I have written this column, several people have suggested that I write about the area’s eating establishments, which I have been frequenting with gratifying regularity. If cooking can be an art, why not eating?
So here goes:
(Please note that every entry is worth your patronage for a host of reasons. I will point to a salient singularity for each. In addition, the order of listing is entirely random. They are all the best.)
Autumn Cafe, Main Street, Oneonta – Besides the earthy warmth, the cheerfulness freely offered, the European tolerance of lingering long over a cup of coffee or a newspaper, the CARROT CAKE is unquestionably the best in the cosmos.
Alex & Ika, Main Street, Cooperstown – Comfort, style, imaginative creations, yes, but the BREAD is unsurpassed. It is often the most telling element of a restaurant and this place wins hands down. Anywhere.
Italian Kitchen, Church Street, Oneonta – Exceptionally hospitable and accommodating – they went out and found a bottle of mineral water on a Sunday night on my first visit; it is now in permanent stock – the SPAGHETTI BOLOGNESE is more superlative than superlative. I have made a study of this dish since I was in Italy at the age of 11, and there is none better, even in Bologna.
The Tunnicliff, Pioneer Street, Cooperstown – FAMILY FRIENDLY, something for all tastes and all sorts and conditions of men, women and children. Enormously cozy in the rawest of weather. As close to home as it gets.
Why is there no Starbucks in Oneonta? It would never make it, up against Latte Lounge and Capresso, both on Main Street, with the stock of EXQUISITE CHOCOLATES in the former and the FRESH ORANGE JUICE in the latter. We are talking quality here.
Elena’s, Clinton Plaza, Oneonta – PASTRY AS ART. Sumptuous, imaginative, lovingly made, out-of-the-ordinary.
Please See SWEET, B-2
ence are no slouches, either, and I don’t mean maybe.
The American Hotel, Route 10, Sharon Springs – An amazing success story, excellent menu, and RECEPTION by Garth Roberts and Doug Plummer that will keep you coming back time and again. Depressed? Forget Prozac. Drop in and refresh your spirit, unfailingly.
Neptune Diner, Southside, Oneonta – OPEN 24 HOURS 365/365. Oneonta, too, is the city that never sleeps at this reliable oasis at all times of day and night.
Stella Luna, Market Street, Oneonta – The architecture of the old railroad station is one thing, and the Tuscan murals another, but you will never forget the POLENTA APPETIZER smothered in creamed mushrooms. Is there a synonym for “the best”?
Canalside Inn, Ann Street, Little Falls – Quite simply, my favorite place of all time, even after 10 years in Paris and 16 years in New York. The BAKED ALASKA is not to be missed, so be sure to order in advance.
Empire Hotel, Route 51, Gilbertsville – New on the scene, with a WARMTH AND BUSTLE straight out of the happiest pages of Charles Dickens. Perfect during these days of celebration.
There are many other places, of course, but I can’t expect you to read on through the night.
As it happens, this is the last you will be reading of my efforts in these pages, for I am moving away from the area between Christmas and New Year’s.
It has been an immense pleasure to share with you the treasures of art in our region over the last 130 or so weeks.
I will miss you, and I hope that this final offering will leave a good taste in your mouth.
Be well. Stay well. Happy 2010!

Editor’s Note: What can be said about Sam Goodyear? Versatile, urbane, enthusiastic, educated (that’s a rarer quality than you might think), kind, a friend. We regret his departure (but know he’ll be back from time to time) and wish him continuing successful living and happiness ahead.
SWEET, From B-1
The rest of the fare and the general experience are no slouches, either, and I don’t mean maybe.
The American Hotel, Route 10, Sharon Springs – An amazing success story, excellent menu, and RECEPTION by Garth Roberts and Doug Plummer that will keep you coming back time and again. Depressed? Forget Prozac. Drop in and refresh your spirit, unfailingly.
Neptune Diner, Southside, Oneonta – OPEN 24 HOURS 365/365. Oneonta, too, is the city that never sleeps at this reliable oasis at all times of day and night.
Stella Luna, Market Street, Oneonta – The architecture of the old railroad station is one thing, and the Tuscan murals another, but you will never forget the POLENTA APPETIZER smothered in creamed mushrooms. Is there a synonym for “the best”?
Canalside Inn, Ann Street, Little Falls – Quite simply, my favorite place of all time, even after 10 years in Paris and 16 years in New York. The BAKED ALASKA is not to be missed, so be sure to order in advance.
Empire Hotel, Route 51, Gilbertsville – New on the scene, with a WARMTH AND BUSTLE straight out of the happiest pages of Charles Dickens. Perfect during these days of celebration.
There are many other places, of course, but I can’t expect you to read on through the night.
As it happens, this is the last you will be reading of my efforts in these pages, for I am moving away from the area between Christmas and New Year’s.
It has been an immense pleasure to share with you the treasures of art in our region over the last 130 or so weeks.
I will miss you, and I hope that this final offering will leave a good taste in your mouth.
Be well. Stay well. Happy 2010!

Editor’s Note: What can be said about Sam Goodyear? Versatile, urbane, enthusiastic, educated (that’s a rarer quality than you might think), kind, a friend. We regret his departure (but know he’ll be back from time to time) and wish him continuing successful living and happiness ahead.

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